Climbing in Margalef

Photo by LIAM LONSDALE
Photo by LIAM LONSDALE

 

Margalef is one of the best sport climbing areas in the world, with more than 80 sectors and close approaching 1500 routes. It is one of the most important climbing areas of Spain offering routes to suit all levels from absolute beginner to the very best in the world.

The huge number of expanding sectors offer routes of many styles, from short steep bouldery routes to long technical slabs and walls. There are many sectors to suit all levels from grade 5, 6 and 7 and a very high concentration of routes in the 8th and 9th grade.

Photo by LIAM LONSDALE
Photo by LIAM LONSDALE

History

Photo by ©ANGHELO BERNAL
Photo by ©ANGHELO BERNAL

The origins of climbing in Margalef date back to 1996, thanks to Jordi Pou, who was the first to begin equipping routes in the area. Closely followed by Joan Ribera and Toni Albero.

Word spread of this paradise and this potential bringing world class athletes such as Iker Pou, Chris Sharma, Dani Andrada to name but a few, who left some of the most futuristic and hardest routes in the world. a mention must also go to Vicent Palau who in recent years has equipped many sectors and quality routes.

Rock

The rock of Margalef is conglomerate and generally consists of rocks and pebbles, with some crimps thrown it.


Photo by LIAM LONSDALE
Photo by LIAM LONSDALE

Type of climbing and season

As mentioned, due to many sectors, Margalef offers a huge range of styles to suit all. Show powerful routes, slabs, continuous climbs, extremely overchanging,

It is a climbing of continuity in holes, resistance and some block passage.

There are many vertical walls and even lying down, propitiating that there are routes for everyone, from initiation levels to the toughest in the world.

Technical walls

It is possible to climb all year round in Margalef due to the varied orientation of the sectors allowing the climbery to choose between sun and shade depending upon the season.

Autumn, winter and spring offer and deliver the best climbing conditions. In general the days are sunny and clear, the region can get snow and rain but generally for short periods. The rock dries very quickly and in some sectors you can still climb in the worst weather due to the steepness of the rock.

Photo by ©ANGHELO BERNAL
Photo by ©ANGHELO BERNAL

The summer months of June, July and August are much hotter, but it is possible to climb in shady sectors in the mornings and afternoons.

Access

Sectors are split between two valleys. The valley of Sant Salvador and the valley with the reservoir.

Both areas offer quality routes for all abilities and relatively easy and simple approaches to the sectors.

Bibliography

Guia d’escalades a Margalef of Jordi Pou.

Margalef climbing guidebook of Vicent Palau and Maya Ayupova.

Margalef: Guia d’Escalada of Joan Ribera, Ramón Lara, Albert Ribera and Raquel Gálvez.